4 motorcycles race down a curved track
4 motorcycles race down a curved track
4 motorcycles race down a curved track

Buying Guide: Motorcycle Track Suits (Leathers)

Thinking of upgrading your protection for the street or starting to ride at the track? Motorcycle track suits, race suits, or “leathers” as they’re often called, are the best protection money can buy. They don’t come cheap though, so here’s what to consider when deciding on a suit. 


Bottom Line:

  1. Demand CE-AAA or CE-II armor, a pocket for a back protector, sliders on the shoulders and elbows, removable knee pucks, and padding at the hips and tailbone. Add an airbag if you can afford it.
  2. Choose the right suit for the conditions: 1-piece or 2-piece depending on track vs street use, perforated leather to stay cool, and non-perforated only if you live in a cold, wet area. Check with the manufacturer regarding non-leather suits.
  3. Check the fit while sitting on a bike and make sure you can lock in to the tank, then have a friend try to twist the armor around your knees and elbows.

Step 1) 1-Piece vs 2-Piece Track Suits

Most manufacturers make both 1-piece suits and 2-piece leather suits. 1-piece suits are a single garment that covers you from neck to wrist to ankle, while 2-piece suits are a matched set of jacket and pants that connect with a 360* zipper around the waist (not jeans!). 

2-piece suits are popular with street riders because they’re more convenient to put on and take off (great for bathroom breaks), let you mix-and-match jacket and pant sizes for a more custom fit, and require less money up front because you can buy just the jacket or just the pants to start. You can also wear the halves of the suit separately from each other, for example pairing the suit’s jacket with denim riding jeans. They typically don’t come with an aerodynamic race hump.

For serious track riders though, a 1-piece suit is the only option. 1-piece suits are slightly safer than 2-piece suits since there’s no waist zipper to break or forget to fasten, and they’re more comfortable on the bike because there’s less material to bunch up at your waist. They are much more of a hassle to put on and take off though. They typically come with a more aggressive pre-curved shape, meaning they will be more comfortable while you’re on your bike in a tuck but less comfortable when you stand up straight. 1-piece suits tend to be cheaper overall than their equivalent 2-piece suits, though the purchase can’t be split into 2 halves like a 2-piece suit can. 1-piece suits for the track almost always come with an aerodynamic hump.

Overall, buy a 1-piece suit if you’re more focused on track riding, and a 2-piece suit if you’re more of a street rider. The 1-piece is more protective, but it can’t protect you on the road if you leave it in the closet because it’s too much hassle to put on.

2) Suit Materials

Most motorcycle race leathers are, well, leather. They come in a variety of types and species, and now some companies are even making vegan “leathers” for riders.

  • Perforated vs Non-Perforated

When a suit is perforated it means that the leather has many small holes punched into it, which lets more air through while you’re riding and keeps you cooler on hot days. Suits will breathe a little through the fabric panels and can be unzipped while you’re off the bike, but the main ventilation comes from the perforation in the leather. Non-perforated suits of course do not have the holes punched in, and do not flow as much air.

Buy a perforated suit if you ride somewhere warm, and a non-perforated suit if you ride somewhere cold. The vast majority of riders in the US will want a perforated suit, though some may find they need both a perforated and non-perforated suit for different seasons. You’ll likely be able to fit one thin layer under your leathers to extend the season of your perforated gear, but only one layer.

  • Cow Leather vs Kangaroo Leather

Entry-level suits are typically made of 1.3mm cowhide, which is fine for most riders. Higher-end suits will still use cowhide but will add details for comfort like more perforation, thinner panels where possible, better adjustment via extra zippers and elastic panels, and finer folds in the accordion areas. The true premium upgrade option though is kangaroo.

Kangaroo leather is popular because it’s stronger and more stretchy cow leather, so suits made from kangaroo leather are lighter and more supple than those made from cow leather. These premium suits can cost twice what the equivalent cow suits would cost and are usually custom tailored. A suit might also feature small amounts of other leathers like sheep, goat, or even stingray, but the bulk of the material will be either cow or kangaroo leather, with stretch panels made of synthetic fabric. 

  • Vegan Motorcycle Suits

For riders looking to opt out of leather entirely, there are now vegan options made from fabrics like Cordura, Kevlar, and SuperFabric. Even if you don’t consider yourself vegan, these deserve a look for their innovation, protection, and the ability to be washed–a real upgrade from sweaty leather! We currently know of only 2 manufacturers making vegan motorcycle leathers, both of which are available by custom order only: 

-Bison Track’s Bison Track Vegan Motorcycle Racing Suit (CE rating not listed, but Bison Track is dedicated to motorcycle race suits and offers airbag integration)

-Andromeda Moto’s NearX Suit (CE-AAA rating, highest possible. Airbag integration not an option.)

3) Suit Costs

There’s no getting around it, a suit will likely be the most expensive piece of equipment you buy, not counting your bike itself. It’s still cheaper than medical bills though, and if you do find yourself skidding across the asphalt you’re unlikely to regret an investment in your safety, unlike that investment in a shiny new exhaust. Here’s what you can expect at a variety of price points:

  • Under $500: Either this is a fantastic deal or it’s not really trackworthy. Tread carefully. 
  • $500-$800: The women’s used market for track suits is small, but if you’re lucky you can score a lightly-used suit in this range, or even a new entry-level suit on sale. There are also sellers online that will offer to make a custom leather suit at these prices, but you’ll need to be very careful that what you get is really trackworthy.
  • $800-$1200: A normal price for a new, entry-level suit from major manufacturers like Alpinestars, Dainese, and Spidi
  • $1200-$1700: You may be able to find a used premium suit in this range. Smaller manufacturers also offer custom suits at this price point in cow leather and vegan options. 
  • $1700-$2200: You may be able to find a new premium/airbag suit on sale in this range, or a used one. Custom colors and tailoring start to become available here too. Smaller manufacturers offer custom suits in this range in all types of materials including kangaroo leather. 
  • $2200-$2900: A normal price for premium and airbag-equipped suits from major retailers
  • $3000 and Higher: In this range, you can get fully custom-made suits from major manufacturers with airbags, any material, and custom designs and colors

4) Suit Fitment

All motorcycle gear should have a snug but comfortable fit, and this is especially important for track leathers. 

If your suit is too loose, the armor may not stay in place in a crash and could leave you unprotected. Another loose-suit side effect is friction burns, where the interior of the suit rubs against your skin during a crash. Even without a crash, a loose suit can make it harder for your legs to grip the tank securely, hurting your confidence and speed in corners.

If your suit is too tight, you’ll find it difficult to zip into before each ride, and uncomfortable all around. It’s better for a suit to be too tight than too loose, but being uncomfortable in your suit for any reason can hurt your confidence and slow you down on track. 

If the regular retail sizes don’t suit you, you can look into different brands, buying a suit and getting it tailored, or ordering a completely custom-made suit.

So, how do you know if a suit fits?

  • Try it on while sitting on your bike, wearing the underlayers you plan to wear with the suit (most riders wear a moisture-wicking long sleeve shirt and leggings). Don’t forget your back protector, and an airbag vest if you’re using one that goes under your leathers.
  • See if you notice any places where the material pulls or bunches up. This is usually a sign of a poor fit, though many 2-piece suits bunch up at the waist, as the overlapping material has nowhere to go. If this bothers you, your options are either a different brand or 1-piece suits.
  • Have a friend try to rotate the knee and elbow sliders around your legs and arms–they should maintain contact with your skin/sleeves and shouldn’t slide at all.
  • Keep in mind that your suit will break in after a couple track days but most of this will be in the width. The length of the sleeves, torso, legs. etc. is unlikely to change with the break in, so make sure it fits right in these areas from day 1. 

5) Common Suit Features

Essentials–don’t buy a suit without these! Your life may depend on it. Even if you never crash, after spending $500-$3,500 you deserve the best protection available.

  • CE-AAA or CE-II armor in the knees, hips, elbows, and shoulders
  • 1-piece suits should have sliders at the shoulders, elbows, and knees. 2-piece suits vary in how many sliders they have.
  • Removable knee pucks, so you can replace them when you wear them down. These are in addition to the knee sliders.
  • Removable interior liner, so you can wash it after a sweaty day of riding
  • Zippers down the wrists and calves so you can get into and out of your suit
  • Sturdy Construction: No one buys a race suit to totter around a parking lot, so make sure yours is built to stand up to a high-speed slide. Modern suits from major gear manufacturers are a safe bet, but if you’re buying from a small company be sure to ask about their construction and safety testing, or if they sponsor any professional racers. For materials, look for 1.0mm cowhide at minimum, and ask about what types of thread they use, e.g. Kevlar.

Other common suit features include:

  • Airbags: Suits and jackets with automatic airbags are now available from both Alpinestars and Dainese, and Held has an over-suit option that can be used with any brand of suit that has an aerodynamic hump. Airbags can reduce the force of an impact by about 90%, and are gaining popularity with racers and track day riders.
  • Hump Upgrades: While the purpose of a suit’s race hump is to improve the aerodynamics of a rider in a tuck, manufacturers have many clever uses for the space. Some suits hide a small water bladder inside to help you stay hydrated, and others have air intake vents at the top of the hump to funnel air down your back and help you stay cool.
  • Perforation: Manufacturers offer most suits in both perf and non-perf options. Most riders in the US will want perforated leather, but check with your riding buddies or even call your local track if you’re unsure.

Custom Fit and Color: If you don’t fit any of the manufacturers’ standard sizes, or you simply have your heart set on one product but the fit or color doesn’t suit you, you can either tailor your suit or even order one fully custom. 

  • Full Custom: Dainese, Alpinestars, and Mithos all offer custom suits, which offer full control of your suit’s look, fit, and features at a premium price. Many smaller manufacturers and online stores also offer custom suits, though you’ll need to be extremely careful that the product you’re getting really is track-appropriate. Make sure the shop is experienced with motorcycle leathers, and uses appropriate materials and thread–it doesn’t matter how tough the leather is if the suit comes apart at the seams. 
  • Tailored standard suit: If the major manufacturers’ standard suits are almost right but need alterations to fit, consider buying a suit off the rack and asking the manufacturer to refer you to a tailor. Note that having your leathers altered by a tailor may void the warranty, which is especially important if your suit has an airbag. Try to find a tailor approved by the manufacturer. If you do work with a non-approved tailor, the same rules from above apply: make sure they’re experienced with motorcycle leathers and use appropriate materials.